The best timing
In Maryland, spring mulching usually happens from April into May, once the soil has warmed. Mulch put down too early over cold, wet soil can slow the ground from warming up. Fall is the other good window, after most leaves have dropped, because a fresh layer protects roots through the winter. If your beds already have mulch, a light top-up is often all they need.
How to do it, step by step
- Pull the weeds first. Mulch smothers new weed seeds but will not stop established weeds. Take them out, roots and all.
- Cut a clean edge. Use a flat spade to cut a crisp line, a few inches deep, where the bed meets the lawn. It keeps the mulch in and the grass out.
- Check what is already there. If the old mulch is thin, loosen it with a rake and add enough new mulch to reach a total of 2 to 3 inches. If it is already that deep, just rake it to freshen it up. Piling more on top every year ends up too deep and keeps water from reaching roots.
- Spread an even 2 to 3 inches. Shredded hardwood, bark and leaf mulch all work well. Keep the layer level.
- Keep it off trunks, stems and siding. Pull the mulch back so the base of each trunk (where it flares out) is visible, and leave a few inches of gap around plant stems and along the house.
- Water it lightly and top up as it thins. Mulch breaks down over time, which is part of how it feeds the soil.
Skip the mulch volcano
A tall cone of mulch piled against a tree is one of the most common mistakes. It holds moisture against the bark, which invites rot and pests, and it can push roots to circle the trunk. A flat, wide ring with the trunk base showing is better for the tree and looks cleaner. Widen the ring as the tree grows.
Short on time? Cleanups and mulch are easy to bundle. A pro can pull the weeds, cut the edges and spread the mulch in one visit.